What is Za'atar?

I use unconventional ingredients. Romanesco cauliflower? No problem. Purple carrots? Bring ‘em on. Coffee grounds as a rub on steaks? Awesome. But there is one particular unconventional ingredient that I am particularly fond of. It’s the one that started it all: za’atar.

What is it, you may ask? It is an actual plant, but most of the time, it’s a combination of herbs such as oregano, marjoram and thyme, along with sumac and sesame seeds. According to My Jewish Learning, in the Torah what we know as za’atar had many purposes, including purification. (Read the article here). Today, it's used on foods in a variety of Middle Eastern countries, including Israel.

I came to discover za’atar from my former roommate, Boaz. I was not so culinarily advanced in those days (so much so that he claims rights on my current cooking skills), but he knew how to do some things. Boaz introduced me to pizza dough from Trader Joe’s, Israeli cow chocolate and, of course, za’atar, which he would put on his Israeli salad with lebne cheese.

You can’t get it at a regular grocery store. It has to be bought at a Persian market or at a kosher market that ships in Israeli items. I got mine at a kosher market on Pico that sells Middle Eastern items. But it’s worth it. I found plenty of use for it over the years on beef and chicken, and you can even use it to top pita.

And then, all of a sudden, it became trendy. On Top Chef, chef and master of the French accent Eric Ripert had contestants one season try his dishes and replicate them. Hosea had a za’atar-crusted fish. Mind you, it didn’t stop him from sounding completely goyish when he said: “I don’t know what za-TAR is!” Unlike Hosea (who, due to some odd twist of fate, won that season of Top Chef), most chefs have learned to think outside the box when it comes to food.

The best part about this exploration is that we embrace the world as we take in our food. To be adventurous and choose the ingredients that not everyone knows or understands, let alone contemplates ever being allowed on certain types of food, is priceless. In this way, za’atar stands apart. When I mention it and people kind of look at me funny, it’s a way of introducing them to something new and unique. It's a special experience.

When we try new things, we open doors to places where we never thought possible. It’s the only way to get anywhere in this world. Sometimes you have to try something new in order get where you’re meant to be. As it’s true in food, it’s true with the job hunt, moving to a new city – or anything else you can think of. Let loose and have fun, and don’t let there be any horizon.

If you want to make you own za’atar, follow the link above to My Jewish Learning. Once you do (or buy a box of it), you can use my recipe below. Ari loves this preparation of chicken, and it’s the best to make chicken soup with. You may have found tips to do it under roast chicken, but here is the actual recipe.

REINA’S ZA’ATAR CHICKEN

1 whole chicken

¼ cup za’atar

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons garlic powder

Salt and pepper

1 whole lemon

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Put the chicken in a roasting pan, and add za’atar, olive oil, garlic powder and salt and pepper. Massage both into the chicken skin and underneath the skin (you should be able to loosen the skin at either end and slip your fingers in). Slice the lemon and insert into the cavity of the chicken, and add salt and pepper.

Place the chicken in the over and cook for 1 ½ to 2 hours, making sure to baste the chicken in order for it to get golden brown and develop a crispy skin. The chicken should be 160 degrees at the thigh if you have a thermometer. If not, wiggle the chicken legs. If they move freely, the chicken should be ready.

QUICK TIP: I’ve heard of recipes for za’atar chicken that incorporate apricots, prunes and other dried fruits to counteract the sourness. I personally like the flavor, but if you want, feel free to substitute the lemon with the fruits.